The Wanderer's Agenda

Salzburg is known for it’s baroque architecture, beautiful landscapes and being the birthplace of Mozart (in the United States and other places around the world, it’s also known as the backdrop to “The Sound of Music“… my all-time favorite movie/musical).  The fourth largest city in Austria, Salzburg is located in central Austria near the German (Bavarian) border. The best way to describe Salzburg, in my opinion, is “fairy tale-like” and “dreamy“.

Getting to Salzburg

Because Austria is a landlocked country bordering eight countries (Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Slovakia, Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Liechtenstein), there are many options for people traveling to Austria, especially when planning a multi-country trip. When traveling internationally, the easiest and quickest way to travel to Salzburg is directly to it’s airport – Salzburg W.A. Mozart International Airport – which is located 20 minutes from the city center.

Another option is to fly to neighboring major cities, such as Munich or Vienna, and take a train directly to Salzburg. Because we traveled to Munich before making our way to Salzburg, taking the train was our best option. We bought our ticket on the same day of travel (at the Munich train station) and were able to get on the next train (they run about every 2 hours from Munich and every hour from Vienna) and paid nearly $10 per person. The train ride from Munich to Salzburg was about 2 hours because we took a “regional train” for a cheaper rate; direct trains take about 1.5 hours. You can also buy your ticket in advance on the German Federal Railways (DB) website or the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) when traveling from Vienna.

Once you arrive at Salzburg Hbf (Hbf = Hauptbahnhof = German word for “central train station”), there are bus and taxi options to get to your next destination. Note: buses run more infrequently on the weekends than during a weekday.

Staying in Salzburg

Salzburg is known as the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart who played a big role in making Salzburg known as one of the “music capitals” of the world. (Hence, you’ll find him ALL OVER the city.)

Hundreds of thousands of visitors travel to Salzburg during the summer months for it’s annual cultural festival called the “Salzburger Festpiele“. This world-renowned festival gains international recognition for hosting hundreds of operas, plays and concerts between July and August.

Because we were visiting Salzburg during the height of the festival, places to stay at were limited. We lucked out with our “hotel” – Villa Riedenberg Design Apartments. We booked our stay using booking.com but you can also find the venue on Airbnb. We stayed in “Apartment Mondsee” which had two separate bedrooms, a full kitchen and bathroom, and fit 5 people comfortably.

Not only was it extremely comfortable, located in an adorable adorable residential neighborhood and affordable ($78 per person, per night during the high peak season)… but it was a quick 20 minute walk to the center of the “Old Town”. Highly recommend!!

Touring Salzburg

Salzburg is not a huge city. You can easily walk most of the main part of the city in an entire day. This makes it easy for visitors to explore tons of different areas of the city! Here are some places I recommend you check out:

1. Hohensalzburg Fortress

   Hohensalzburg Fortress is one of the largest medieval castles in all of Europe and can be seen from nearly anywhere in Salzburg. This structure is a spectacular sight and full of history – as it was built in the year 1077 under Salzburg’s Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein. Because the fortress has never been captured by foreign troops, it offers visitors a chance to see an authentic 11th century European construction.

   

   When visiting the fortress, you can either make the trek up by foot (about 30 minutes uphill) or ride the fortress funicular (“Festungsbahn”) from Festungsgasse (Castle Street). Tickets for the train ride and visiting the exhibits in the fortress are 15 euros and can be bought right on Castle Street. The ride up to the fortress on the Festungsbahn is only 1 minute and provides a sweet view of Salzburg!

   

   

   Once you arrive at the fortress, take a walk around and check out the medieval princely chambers, fortress museum, and the Marionette Museum. If you’re hungry, there are several options to dine on top of the fortress.

   

   

2. Getreidegasse

Take a stroll down Getreidegasse – Salzburg’s busy shopping street in the center of the Old Town historic district. You’ll find the birthplace of Mozart, international fashion stores, local restaurants and the prettiest “iron guild signs” hanging from each store front.

• Schloss Hellbrunn

  Schloss Hellbrunn is a Baroque-style villa built 400 years ago by one of Salzburg’s Prince-Archbishops.  This palace was meant to be a “day residence” for the Prince-Archbishop and therefore a bedroom was never constructed inside the building.

  

  Aside from the palace building, Schloss Hellbrunn is known for it’s famous trick fountains, which were built as a practical joke to guests who would visit Hellbrunn. Popular during the summer months, visitors get to walk through the backyard of the palace where hidden fountains surprise and spray tourists. Tickets cost about 12.50 euros for a tour inside Hellbrunn and through the trick fountains (July and August only). For those who’d rather save money, you can walk around the gorgeous park behind Hellbrunn for free!

  

  

  

  Don’t forget to visit the famous gazebo from the “Sound of Music” where Liesl and Franz sing “Sixteen Going on Seventeen“.

• Schloss Mirabell

  Schloss Mirabell is one of the most recognizable sights in the city of Salzburg and is part of the Historic Center of the City of Salzburg’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in 1606, Schloss Mirabell was originally built for the Prince Archbishop and his mistress. Since 1866, it has been owned by the city of Salzburg and used for administrative offices – including the office of Salzburg’s mayor.

  
  Schloss Mirabell’s gardens are unlike those you’ve ever seen before and attract thousands of visitors. The gardens were also the main landscape for the Sound of Music’s “Do-Re-Mi” song.

  

  

  

• Salzburg Museum of Modern Art

  Sitting on top of Mönchsberg (one of Salzburg’s mountains) is the Salzburg Museum of Modern Art. Views from atop the mountain are some of the best in all of Salzburg. You can even make the trek up to the museum JUST for the view (we did!).

  

  

   

  

  

• Salzburg Cathedral

  

  Salzburg Cathedral, also known as “Dom zu Salzburg”, was first built in 767 and later consecrated in years 774, 1628 and 1959 due to several fires that destroyed the structure. Don’t miss a chance to walk into the cathedral for it’s amazing baroque architecture and goosebump-worthy performances by the church choir during Sunday service.

  

• Mozarts Geburtshaus

  Salzburg is famously known as the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and luckily you can still visit the Mozart family home located on Getreidegasse. The Mozart family resided in this home from 1747 to 1773 (Mozart was born in 1756). Today, it serves as a museum to visitors wanting a glimpse in the upbringing of one of the world’s most influential composers.

  

• Alter Markt Square
  

  Alter Markt Square is the old marketplace in Salzburg’s Old Town. This was the center of trading during the 13th century for the city. Walking around the square today you will find a ton of street vendors, artists, musicians, horse carriages and local restaurants and shops.

  

  

  

• Sound of Music House

  Schloss Leopoldskron is located in the more residential part of Salzburg and sits on a lake with Hohensalzburg Fortress sitting behind it. It was originally built in 1736 as the family residence of one of Salzburg’s Prince-Archbishops. For those who have wanted to stay at a palace, here’s your chance… today, Schloss Leopoldskron serves as a hotel for visitors.

  This is also the setting for the “boat scene” in the Sound of Music when the children and Maria are rowing back to their home only to find their father back from Vienna.
  
  

 

Eating Around Salzburg

1. Breakfast (the best meal of the day):

   • Café Tomaselli: This café is a traditional Viennese coffeehouse and located in the center of “Old Town” in Salzburg, in the Alter Markt Square. It is known for being the oldest café in Austria (the restaurant is still run by the original family and has been open for over 300 years). If the weather permits, try and snag a table on the balcony or on one of the tables outside. The food was absolutely delicious – especially their “eggs in a cup“… I’ve never eaten eggs that tasted more fresh than these.
     

     

     
   • Café Engljähringer: This café was recommended by our hotel and was situated only a couple blocks away. It is a very local establishment and the service was exceptional! We sat in the courtyard outside (which has the majority of their seating) in a very cute gazebo.
     

     

     This place has affordable breakfast options that will keep you full for the majority of the day!

     

     

     

2. Lunch:

   •  Café Sacher: Located inside Hotel Sacher on the Salzach River, this is a perfect spot for lunch with a view. If it’s warm outside, definitely sit on the terrace! Order their famous Sacher-Torte which is similar to a chocolate cake.
     

     

     
   • Food Carts/Trucks: For a quick bite to eat while touring, there’s a ton of food cart options around the city. Most of them carry typical Austrian food such as Schnitzelsemmerl (Schnitzel sandwich), Käsekrainer (sausage with cheese inside), and Frankfurter (Vienna sausage). There is also delicious Turkish street food due to a large Turkish community living in Salzburg. Try the Doner Kebab!
     

     

     

3.  Dinner:

   • Osteria Cavalli: Being that Salzburg is just over 2 hours from the Italian border, it is home to some delicious and authentic Italian cuisine! This cozy restaurant was packed when we arrived (and it was a Sunday night)… luckily, we didn’t have to wait too long to be seated.
     

     

     Everything we ordered was delicious – you can’t go wrong here… but the risotto was my absolute favorite.

     

     

     
   • Ristorante Pizzeria da Giacomo: We couldn’t get enough of the Italian… so we ate at another local Italian restaurant (recommended by my Austrian friend, Sarah)…this time at a family-owned establishment (father and son work together to run the restaurant).
     

     

     The owner’s son was our server and was extremely friendly and welcoming! Sit outside in their garden and order the Pizza Laura (named after the owner’s son’s girlfriend) and the squid. We couldn’t stop talking about it days after.

     

     

     
   • Casa Sissy: Okay, this isn’t an actual restaurant but we had a typical Austrian dinner at my former host mom’s beautiful home. So…I forgot to mention I studied abroad in Salzburg for 3 months the summer of 2013 and lived with an Austrian woman named Sissy (alongside my Cuban-American sister Monica who was also a student with me!).
     

     

     

     She made us Schnitzel and Kartoffelpüree (mashed potato) with Apfelstrudel for dessert. Nothing like homemade Austrian food made with love by an Austrian abuelita.

     

     

4. Drinks:

   • Stiegl Brauwelt: Walking distance from our hotel was the local Stiegl brewery where you can eat typical Austrian food, drink Austrian beer and tour the brewery.  My favorite Stiegl beer is the Steigl Radler with grapefruit (perfect for a summer refreshing beer).
   • Augustiner Bräustuberl: This is a famous brewery and beer garden with self serving beer. This brewery is Austria’s largest and has been up and running since 1621. Inside you’ll find various food stands which resemble a marketplace.
   • Murphy’s Law: Located on the “Old Town” side is an Irish Pub built pretty much inside of Mönchsberg (one of the five mountains in Salzburg). Here you’ll find the largest choice of Irish beers & cider in the city of Salzburg. If you’re looking for a spot to watch sports and hang out, this is your bar! It was right next door to Salzburg College and one of my favorite places to come with my classmates after school. Also… you will find a UF flag displayed right outside their window!

Exploring Outside of Salzburg

Salzburg is not only known for it’s picturesque city, but the surrounding region has tons to do for those who enjoy spending their time outdoors. Here are some must-see places:

1. Lake District:

   Once you visit the Lake District, known as Salzkammergut, you’ll never want to leave… guaranteed. The Salzkammergut region stretches from the state of Salzburg to the states of Upper Austria and Styria, with the majority of lakes in Upper Austria. The closest lakes to the city of Salzburg are Wolfgangsee and Fuschlsee which are both accessible by public buses which you can easily pick up outside of Schloss Mirabell.

   

   • Wolfgangsee: You can also tour these lakes with various tour groups – we purchased the Panorama “Lakes and Mountains” Tour. Costing 42 euros and lasting approximately 4 hours, this tour took us to the following places:
     • Lake Fuschl: On our way to the town of St. Wolfgang, our tour bus pulled over to the side of the road so that we could get a beautiful shot of Lake Fuschl or “Fuschlsee”. Fun fact: the water from the lake is so pure, that is serves as drinking water for the region (therefore, motor sports is prohibited on this lake to preserve the fresh water quality).
     • St. Wolfgang: We had the chance to explore the market town of St. Wolfgang in Upper Austria for about an hour. It is home to the famous “White Horse Inn“, its pilgrimage church with Gothic architecture and it’s  gorgeous views.
       

       

       This small market town also has the cutest little shops that sell touristy trinkets and some yummy treats.

       

       

       
     • Boat across Wolfgangsee: Included in the price of our tour was a 45-minute boat ride across Wolfgangsee – taking us from the town of St. Wolfgang to the town on the other side of the lake called St. Gilgen.
       

       

       

       This was absolutely the b-e-s-t part of the tour. The views were breathtaking, the weather was perfection and we did NOT want to get off the boat.

     • St. Gilgen: “Sankt Gilgen” is a tiny town on the opposite side of Wolfgangsee. It is known as the birthplace of Mozart’s mother and home to his sister after she married.
       

       
   • Hallstatt: Located in Upper Austria (about 70km from the city of Salzburg), is a beautiful lake village called Hallstatt. One of the most famous UNESCO World Heritage sites in Austria, Hallstatt is a picturesque town also known for its production of salt. Visiting Hallstatt is a bit trickier from Salzburg (due to limited road access), but there are tours that will get you there. Aside from the amazing views, here are some things to see in Hallstatt:
     • Bone House
       
       

       
     • Evangelical Church
       
       

       

2. Ice Caves:

   A trip to Eisriesenwelt Werfen is worth the 40km trip south of Salzburg. “Eisriesenwelt” literally translating to “World of the Ice Giants“, is located in Werfen, Austria and home to the largest ice cave in the world. Only open from May 1st to October 29th, there are various ways to get to the ice caves from Salzburg – from driving, tour buses and train. The cost for adults is 24 euros, which includes the cost of the cave tour and cable car trip up the mountain. Make sure to prepare before you visit as their are recommendations for attire.

   

   

   

   After the tour, there’s a restaurant on top of the mountain with some yummy traditional foods and great views!

   

   

3. Salt Mines:
   

   Considering everything in this region is named after salt, visiting a local salt mine will allow you to learn about the importance of salt production in and around the state of Salzburg. Here are a couple of salt mines to visit in the area:
   

   • Hallein Salt Mine: Hallein is the oldest salt mine in the world, located in the town of Hallein, Austria (30 minutes south of Salzburg). The mine has been worked on for over 7,000 years (since the time of the Celtic tribes) and helped ensure Salzburg would become a powerful trading city.
   • Berchtesgaden Salt Mine: Panorama Tours offers a 4 hour tour to the 500 year old salt mine in Berchtesgaden with views of the Bavarian Mountains. The tour allows you to try on traditional miners’ clothes and take the miners’ train deep into the mountain and take the slides down to the salt lake which you will be crossing by boat. After the tour, you will have the opportunity to explore the little town of Berchtesgaden tasting some Bavarian specialties.
     

     

4. Bavarian Mountains & Eagles Nest:
   

   Because Salzburg sits on the Austria/German border, it’s easy for those visiting Salzburg to travel to different areas in Bavaria. Just a 30 minute drive south of Salzburg and you will find yourself in Obersalzburg – the second headquarters of the Third Reich. Sitting atop the Alps you will find Hitler’s former mountain residence known as “Eagles Nest“. Visitors can take the  6.5km drive up the mountain and tour Eagles Nest and have an amazing view of the Bavarian Mountains. Panorama Tours has two options for this destination:

   • Bavarian Alps: This is a 4 hour tour to the Bavarian Mountains region where you will get to visit Obersalzburg, Kings Lake, and the picturesque town of Berchtesgaden (however, you will not go UP to the Eagles Nest). On our tour, we stopped to eat at Hotel Edelweiss for some local Bavarian cuisine.
     

     

     
   • Eagles Nest: This is a 4.5 hour tour to the same region mentioned above but including a visit up the mountain to Eagles Nest.

5. Outdoor Adventures:

   The possibilities for outdoor adventures is endless in the Salzburg region – from hiking and canyoning to zip lining and white water rafting. Check out this website for options.

   

   

   

Itinerary

Unfortunately, 3 days doesn’t give you enough time to visit everything I mentioned above (unless maybe you don’t sleep?). Here’s what we were able to squeeze in for an unforgettable 3-day visit to the Salzburg area:

DAY 1 – Arriving in Salzburg

4:00pm – 6:00pm – Train from Munich, Germany to Salzburg, Austria

6:00pm – 6:30pm – Taxi to Sissy’s House

6:30pm – 8:30pm – Dinner at Sissy’s and walk to the “Sound of Music” house

8:30pm – 9:00pm – Check-in to Villa Riedenberg

9:00pm – 12:00am – Explore Salzburg’s nightlife

DAY 2 – Exploring the City

9:30am – 10:00am – Walk from hotel to Old Town

10:00am – 10:30am – Walk around Old Town

• St. Peter’s Church & Cemetery
• Alter Markt Square
• Views of Hohensalzburg Fortress

10:30am – 11:30am – Breakfast at Café Tomaselli

11:30am – 12:00pm – Get tickets for Hohensalzburg Fortress

12:00pm – 2:00pm – Tour Hohensalzburg Fortress

2:00pm – 2:30pm – Walk across town for lunch

2:30pm – 4:00pm – Lunch at Café Sacher

4:00pm – 4:30pm – Walk around Schloss Mirabell

4:30pm – 5:00pm – Walk along the Salzach & shop at flea market

5:00pm – 6:00pm – Take the elevator up to the Salzburg Museum of Modern Art and walk across and down the mountain

6:00pm – 6:30pm – Enjoy a beer at Murphy’s Law

6:30pm – 7:00pm – Walk back to hotel

7:00pm – 8:00pm – Much needed nap time

8:00pm – 8:15pm – Walk to dinner

8:15pm – 10:00pm – Dinner at Osteria Cavalli

DAY 3 – Castles & Lakes

8:30am – 8:45am – Walk to breakfast

8:45am – 9:45am – Breakfast at Café Engljähringer

9:45am – 10:00am – Taxi to Schloss Hellbrunn

10:00am – 11:30am – Walk around Schloss Hellbrunn

11:30am – 12:00pm – Taxi to Schloss Mirabell

12:00pm – 12:30pm – Walk around Schloss Mirabell, Mozart Geburtshaus and across the Salzach

12:30pm – 1:30pm – Lunch at food truck cart on Salzach River

1:30pm – 2:00pm – Walk back to Schloss Mirabell to pick-up tour bus

2:00pm – 6:00pm – Lakes and Mountains tour with Panorama Tours

6:00pm – 6:30pm – Taxi to dinner

6:30pm – 8:30pm – Dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria da Giacomo

8:30pm – 9:00pm – Ride back to hotel

9:00pm – 10:00pm – Packing time

DAY 4 – Salt Mines & Mountains 

7:45am – 8:15am – Breakfast/check-out of hotel

8:15am – 8:30am –  Bus to Schloss Mirabell

• The Panorama Tour picked us up in a van with our luggage at 8:15am on the dot. This was a free service they provided so that we could take their tour and immediately head to the train station afterwards.

8:45am – 1:00pm – Salt Mine & Bavarian Mountains Tour

1:00pm – 1:30pm – Walk to Salzburg Hauptbahnhof and purchase train tickets

3:00pm – 5:00pm – Train back to Munich

 

And that is all,

Auf Wiedersehen!